|
Making mosaics requires basic shop safety practices: Wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials or mixing grout.
Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children. Avoid breathing the dust when mixing grout.
Wear rubber dishwashing gloves when grouting to avoid irritating your skin. Don't overload patio tables with mosaic
materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy). You should also make sure that the table frame can support
the overall weight.
How do I start mosaicing right now? For an indoor project not subjected to moisture, it is very simple:
1. Draw a simple "cartoon" (outline) on the surface. You can copy one from a coloring book or your favorite
pattern of china or fabric if you aren't an artist
2. Decide what size tiles are most appropriate for the level of detail in the design. Lay a few tiles down
just to make sure the colors look right together.
3. Glue the tiles to the surface one at a time with Weldbond. Make sure the gaps between the tiles are about 1/8
inch or less.
4. After the glue cures for 24 hours, grout the mosaic with regular bathroom tile grout.
For more complicated designs, you can lay the project up on mesh (by gluing sparingly with Weldbond), or you can pick up
the tiles with clear contact paper. In either case, the next step would be to spread glue or cement on the surface and
press the sheet of mosaic onto the glue or cement.
For an outdoor project or a project subjected to moisture, you should probably use thinset (a type of sticky concrete with
polymers added for strength and water resistance. Thinset is available at building material stores. You should
also seal the mosaic with a tile and grout sealer from your local hardware store.
How do you grout a mosaic? Mix the grout according to instructions on package and avoid breathing dust. Spread the grout into the cracks. Wipe
off the excess grout. Use a sponge instead of a rag because the rag will catch on any sharp edges. Don't try to wipe it perfectly
clean all at once. Rinse out the sponge after each pass. Make sure your sponge isn't dripping water after you
rinse it out. Wipe flat across the surface. Don't rub down in the cracks or you will erode the grout between the
tiles. Keep the surface damp as the grout cures or it will crack.
How do I mosaic an outdoor mosaic such as a patio floor, fountain or birdbath? For the most part, our mosaic instructions are written for making indoor mosaics with small details. This is why we recommend
the "glue-then-grout" method using Weldbond glue,
a water-based adhesive with no fumes. With proper grouting and sealing,
these indoor mosaics should last for generations, if not thousands of years. However, mosaics for outdoor walls, patios, fountains,
birdbaths and pools are more vulnerable to moisture penetration, especially over time, and Weldbond should be avoided.
While
a solvent-based glue such as Liquid Nails can be used for mosaics on outdoor walls, it is probably best to avoid glues altogether
and use thinset bonding mortar to attach the tiles, especially if the mosaic is in a pool, patio or fountain. Thinset bonding
mortars are a cement product. Currently, we are using the Versabond brand of thinset bonding mortar for outdoor mosaics. This
thinset or another brand should be available at most any building material store. Whether or not thinset mortar is used the
attach the tiles, you should grout and seal your mosaic as described elsewhere in our instructions.
Illustrated instructions for using thinset mortars to attach glass mosaic tiles are available online at the Ceramic Tile Institute of America. These
instructions were written for sheets of mosaic tile mounted on paper, but the basic idea can be used for loose tiles or tiles
mounted on mesh.
We recommend the following book for more information on outdoor mosaics:
Outdoor Mosaic: Original Weather-Proof Designs to Brighten Any Exterior Space
by Emma Biggs, Tessa
Hunkin
You can also ask questions about outdoor tiling at the building material store. Also, the labels on the grouts
and adhesives usually have recommendations like "indoor use only" or "water-resistant for outdoor use" or things
like that, so that you can always rule out obvious mistakes.
Instead of normal tile, I want to make a mosaic from china and other materials of different thickness. How do I use materials
of different thickness in a mosaic? Actually, there is a good way to use the millefiori, china and other objects of different thickness. To use these materials,
the best way is to use thinset bonding mortar (a type of sticky concrete) instead of glue. It's available at building material
stores. I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread
it out to about 1/8" to 1/4" thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber examination gloves
and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the
bucket covered so that it doesn't dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the
gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from
time to time and a dry rag in my lap.
That way the thin pieces can have more concrete underneath, like in the "Plum Tree Mosaic."
Can I mosaic on wood or plywood? Indoors, these materials can be used with no problems. Outdoor use requires some thought and preparation, and I would
definitely avoid wood outdoors if possible. I would seal the back and edges with water seal or an oil-based paint. Fine
mosaic work takes an investment in time and materials. It only makes sense to mosaic on a backing that is resistant
to moisture and decay. Thus the best material to use for a backing is concrete backer board, especially for outdoor
tables and flooring. Concrete board is cheap, available locally, easy to cut and resists the elements. However,
wood and even plywood make great backings for small indoor mosaics such as mirror frames and wall plaques.
How can I learn about grouts and how to grout? Not much to learn. It's the same techniques and material used for bathroom tile. Ask at you local building material
store. Look at a basic book on home improvement if you need pictures.
Is there anything special about mosaic grouts? No. The grouts and sealers you need are the same ones used for ordinary bathroom tiling, and the techniques of applying
are the same.
What is the best glue for indoor mosaics? Weldbond. It's water based, has no fumes, dries clear and water resistant, bonds to most any surface, is non-toxic and cleans
up easily. However, we prefer to use thinset bonding mortar for floors.
How do I use round marbles and stones in mosaics? If you're pushing them into wet concrete as you would for a stepping stone, then no problem. If you are gluing them to a surface
and then grouting, make sure you use something thick and tarry like Liquid Nails brand adhesive. Also make sure that you use
thicker tile around the marbles so they don't stick out so far. Otherwise there is a danger that the marbles may pop off when
you grout. I always wear dishwashing gloves and grout with my fingers. This allows me to remove all excess grout without bumping
the marbles too much.
What's the best glue for marbles and round stones? Liquid Nails brand adhesive. It's thick and tarry and tends to grab onto the round surfaces.
What's the best adhesive for outdoor mosaics? It is probably best to avoid adhesives altogether and use thinset bonding mortar (a sticky concrete) instead. Liquid
Nails Adhesive would probably be best for outdoors, if you have to use an adhesive. It's thick and tarry and bonds to anything,
but it is solvent based and the fumes are an issue. We use Weldbond adhesive for mosaics for indoor mosaics where water or
rain isn't an issue because there aren't any fumes and clean up is much easier. We have used Weldbond successfully on several
outdoor projects, but these pieces were grouted and sealed very well, and they were vertical surfaces that didn't have water
standing on them. Liquid Nails Adhesive will probably resist extreme freeze-thaw cycles better. Ask questions and read
labels at your local building material store.
How do I use thinset? You should read and follow the instructions on the package for mixing, handling and disposal. In brief, thinset is like
grout and other concrete products. This means that the best place to mix them up is outside, and you should wear a dust
mask if have trouble mixing it up without creating a lot of dust. (Our artists merely stand upwind and mist it
with a spray bottle until they get it mixed up.)
I usually mix up about 1 or 2 pounds at a time and smear it on the wall with a small trowel or putty knife. I spread it
out to about 1/8" to 1/4" thick and press my mixed materials directly into the concrete. I wear rubber examination gloves
and keep a damp rag so I can wipe away any excess that squeezes up to the face of the tiles. If you keep the concrete in the
bucket covered so that it doesn't dry out, then it should stay workable for several hours. I made the mosaic columns at the
gallery using thinset mortar in this way. I always keep a small bucket with a little water and rag to clean my hands from
time to time and a dry rag in my lap.
How do I put a mosaic on a wall? Won't the tiles slide off while I'm gluing them? Glue your mosaic tiles to fiberglass mesh at your work table. (Make sure your table is covered with construction plastic or
parchment paper, such as used in baking, so that you don't glue everything to the table. Most people cut the mesh in
smaller sections, usually 12 inch x 12 inch, because it is difficult to handle sheets of mosaic larger than 1 sq foot.
Most people use Weldbond (sparingly) to attach tiles to mesh. When the mesh is dry in about 24 to 48 hours, you are ready
to mount this assembly to the wall. This is done by spreading thinset or mastic or Weldbond on the wall itself and pressing
the mesh onto the wall. After this cures, in about 48 hours, you can grout the mosaic in place.
I grouted my mosaic and then noticed that glue was showing. What did I do wrong? You need to always clean up excess glue before you grout. I also use the following technique when using Weldbond indoors or
outdoors. After the glue has dried for a day or two, I come back and mist the mosaic with water. After about 10 minutes, any
traces of glue that are sticking up on the sides of the tile will start to turn white. I then take a razor knife like a box
cutter or exacto knife and trim away the excess glue. This cleaning step ensures that there will be no glue sticking up and
not covered by grout.
I grouted my stone mosaic and now all the stones are the same color as the grout. What can I do? You should always seal stone tiles and unglazed ceramic tiles with a tile and grout sealer BEFORE you grout. This is necessary
for all porous materials that can be stained by grout. You should seal using a Stone Enhancer instead of tile and grout sealer
if you want to darken and enhance the natural color of the stone. Both of these products are available at local building material
stores. Ask there. For a stone mosaic that is already stained, you might want to try some of the muratic acid that contractors
use to clean cement from bricks. Also ask at the building material store about this product.
How much grout do I need for my mosaic? How much grout you need depends on three things: 1) the area of the mosaic = L x W 2) the thickness of the tiles and 3) the
gaps between the tiles. If the tiles well-spaced (all gaps under 1/4"), then you should be able to cover the entire mosaic
of 18" x 18" with 2 lbs of grout. This is assuming your tiles are under 3/8" thick. I always set my mosaic on an old shower
curtain or piece of plastic to catch all the wet grout that falls off the side as I'm spreading it. That way, I can scoop
it up and use it. Otherwise you need a lot more grout because most is wasted.
What color grout should I use in my mosaic? I always choose a grout color which contrast the colors of the mosaic tiles so that the design is highlighted. Otherwise the
individual tiles are lost to the eye, and the mosaic looks more like an ordinary picture and less like a mosaic made from
pieces. I avoid situations like gray grout with gray tile. A nice red-brown grout works better in that instance. The key concept
is color contrast.
Can I use stone and glass mosaic tile together? The two materials have different thickness. If you are pushing the tiles into concrete or mortar, then it doesn't matter.
If you are gluing to a surface, the difference in heights will be visible. This makes grouting a little more difficult, but
it hasn't stopped me from doing it on many of my pieces at the gallery. I wouldn't recommend this for floor mosaics!
Can I mosaic wooden furniture for outdoors? Only if you don't care whether or not it lasts. Mosaic on concrete or concrete backer board. Concrete backer board can be
purchased cheaply at local building material stores and can be used as the mosaic surface in metal patio tables. This is the
best way to make an outdoor mosaic table.
How do I make a mosaic stepping stone? Do I need grout or glue? No. Most mosaic stepping stones are made by pouring concrete into a mold and pressing in mosaic tiles while the concrete is
still wet. You can get ordinary concrete mix from a local building material store. Make sure you pick out most of the larger
rocks before you mix it. You can use a plastic dishpan as a mold or cut off a plastic 5-gallon bucket. Make sure you rub vaseline
into it so the stone will come out later. :) Pour the concrete about 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick. Don't buy the stepping stone
kits. They are boring and unoriginal. You can make beautiful stones just by collecting your own marbles, beach glass, shells,
etc.
How much tile do I need to cover my table or floor? All the tile we sell has dimensions in the description. We also have a "Tile Calculator" page in the top menu bar.
Do I need grout with sand in it? If the gaps between your mosaic tiles are greater than 1/8". The sand reinforces the grout to prevent cracking if the gaps
are greater than 1/8 inch.
My grout started cracking and crumbled. What did I do wrong? You shouldn't let the grout dry out as it cures. Lightly mist with a spray bottle, but don't let drops accumulate on the surface
of the mosaic. Mix the grout according to instructions. It should be like a moist dough when you start with no dry material
or lumps.
How do I make an outdoor mosaic last? After the grout cures for 48 hours, seal the mosaic with tile and grout sealer from a local building material store.
How do I cut glass and glass mosaic tile? You need a wheeled glass cutter. It has two blades shaped like wheels. A regular tile nipper tends to crush most glass but
can be used with certain types of vitreous glass mosaic tile.
What tool do I need to cut smalti? Wheeled glass cutter. It has two blades shaped like wheels. A regular tile nipper tends to crush most glass.
What tool do I need to cut porcelain, china and other dinnerware? Porcelain Tile Nipper.
What tool do I need to cut ceramic tile? Tile Nipper.
Should I use mastic or thinset mortar for my mosaic? Thinset bonding mortar should be used for outdoor mosaics. Mastic is used to attach tile to drywall. We don't
use either for our artistic mosaics. If you are making an indoor mosaic with small detail, you probably want to glue each
individual tile with Weldbond. This should allow you to work slow enough to get the design right before you grout.
On the other hand, if you spread a large amount of glue or mastic or thinset bonding mortar, you need to remember that you
will need to work fast before those materials start setting up and become unworkable.
Can I make a mosaic on top of my formica counter top? People have done so, but if the mosaic is an interesting design, you'll probably want to take the formica off and use a base
that is sure to last. The engineer in me hates the idea of wasting time and material on something that might not last.
Can I mosaic directly on the brick outside of a building? The brick is fine, unless it is old and slightly crumbling, and then you might need to buff off the loose material. You don't
need the concrete board if you can glue directly on the brick. You will probably want to glue the tiles on mosaic mesh and
then glue that whole sheet on the wall.
Can I mix glass and ceramic tiles? As long as the colors look right, you can mix any materials, except that you need to make sure they are close to being the
same thickness. You don't have to wory about thickness if you are pressing them into wet concrete of course.
Can I cut glass mosaic tile with a tile nipper? The wheeled glass cutter is better. It works like a tile nipper only it has wheel-shaped blades that allow it to cut glass
cleaner instead of crushing it.
How can I cut curved shapes? Look at any book on classical or Renaissance mosaics. They don't use curved pieces. The artists make curved shapes by putting
small pieces together.
I want to make a mosaic backsplash. What do I use for the backing? Concrete backer board from your local building material store. It's cheap and can be cut and broken by scoring with a box
cutter. Either glue the material on the backer board and mount the board to the studs in the wall or mount the board and glue
mosaic material to the board. In the latter case, you might want to glue the tiles to fiberglass mesh and then glue the whole
piece of mesh to the backer. In either case, you grout the tiles in place on the wall.
Can I mosaic on my glass table top? Mosaic tile and grout are heavy. Don't create a safety problem by using glass as a base. Simply replace the glass with a piece
of wood.
I want to put a mosaic on top of my patio table. What material should I use for the top? Concrete backer board from your local building material store. It's cheap and can be cut and broken by scoring with a box
cutter. Make sure that you don't overload the table or make it too heavy or unstable.
Can Weldbond be used on glass mosaic tile? Yes. It bonds to most any material.
I want to mosaic on wooden furniture indoors. What do I need to do to the surface of the wood before I start? I've mosaiced on raw wood and wood with stain, but not on top of wood sealer. I think raw wood is best because that probably
allows the best bonding of glue and grout. If you're concerned about the possibility of the furniture warping over the years
due to humidity, you can coat it with Weldbond. This seals the wood from moisture, but still provides a surface that is good
for bonding. Some people mix in a little water with the Weldbond so that they can paint it on with a paintbrush. A few coats
should ensure that the wood is sealed. Once that is dry, you can begin the mosaic. Another thing that you can due to help
your piece last for generations is to seal the grout when you are done with a non-gloss grout
sealer. I always use non-gloss
because that doesn't change the color or appearance of the mosaic the way that gloss sealers can.
Do I need to seal glass tile before I start my mosaic? I only seal stone and unglazed ceramics before I grout. I don't worry about glass because it isn't porous the way stone is,
and it can't be stained by the grout. Stone and Grout Sealer is available at local building material stores. I use non-gloss
sealer because it doesn't change the color or shine of the mosaic.
How do I cut stone mosaic tile? Traditionally, mosaic stone is cut with a hammer and hardie (small anvil), but many people use a tile nipper. Here's the method
I use: Since the stone doesn't break that cleanly, and the cuts often mar the finish of the stone, I design my mosaic so that
as few pieces as possible have to be cut. Most pieces in the design are full squares, and the few pieces I have to cut are
cut with a tile nipper or small hammer and small chisel. This means you should probably buy small pieces (such as 3/8" as
opposed to 9/16") to make your design.
I want to put a mosaic in the middle of my floor. Do my tiles in my mosaic need to be as thick as the tiles around it?
Yes. You want the surface to be even for safety and durability reasons.
I saw some clear grout. Where do I get this? No you didn't. Grout is concrete. Obviously you saw some other product, probably silicon sealant.
I want to put a mosaic on an aluminum table for outdoors. Is this possible? Mosaic materials are heavy. Iron patio furniture is a better candidate because aluminum furniture is often thin and flimsy.
You would need to make sure that the legs could hold the weight and the top is sturdy. If the aluminum top flexes even slightly,
it will crack the grout.
My patio table is 48 inches wide, but the concrete backer board is only 36 inches wide. How do I make the table top? The 48" patio tables are very common. You should have a welder put some supports of angle iron underneath, and the concrete
board is glued to that. The table probably needs to be reinforced anyway, and you should make sure that you aren't making
the table too heavy for the legs or top-heavy or unstable.
Color is best provided by the tile, not the grout. In terms of a visual element, the grout is supposed to act like a thin
gray pencil line that just makes each tile distinct. I don't think I've ever seen a mosaic that used colored grout that wouldn't
have looked better if all tile had been used instead. For example, let's say you wanted red tile in pink grout. A better way
to get the same color effect would be to mix in a few pink tiles randomly throughout the red tiles, or maybe use a few lines
of pink tiles. Often this means you have to cut your tile just a little bit smaller.
There are mineral concrete dyes
sold at building material stores, and these can be used, although the range of colors is limited to black, brown, gray, terracotta,
etc. Vegetable dyes such as food colors will not be permanent.
Usually MEDIUM GRAY. Here's why: The purpose of grout in visual terms is to make each tile distinct like a
gray pencil line in a watercolor. A medium or "natural" gray provides just enough contrast to most colors, unless you
have gray tile, and then you might want to consider black or a dark gray. Avoid pure white unless you are trying to
make something that looks like a little kid's summer camp project. Most building material stores such as Lowes and Home
Depot cary about 30+ colors of grout. Bring a few of each color of your tiles with you, and you can pick the color grout
that works best with all the tile.
There are two different approaches for handling the edges of mosaics:
1. "Roman Fragment" In museums, small
fragments of Roman mosaics are often displayed on small stands with the edges left unfinished. When I make small mosaic plaques,
I will often use a flat piece of fieldstone from a lawn and garden center because I like the non-square shapes. For
square shapes, I laminate 1/4" concrete board to 1/4" plywood. I mosaic to the edge but make sure that no tile extends beyond
the edge. Once I have grouted the mosaic and let it cure, I will go back with medium grit sandpaper and clean up the
edge. Then I seal the back and edges with acrylic paint. This technique should only be used on small mosaics because tiles
can easily be knocked loose from the unprotected edges.
2. "Picture Frame" For larger mosaics, I build a frame from
1.5" wide oak, but you can use a cheaper and softer variety of wood. Usually I make the frame before I create the mosaic by
glueing the frame to the plywood wood backer and then cutting a smaller piece of concrete board to fit inside the frame. You
should find a friend with a miter saw to cut the frame for you because a miter saw can quickly and accurately cut the ends
of the wood strips at a 45 degree angle so that they fit together like the corners of a picture frame. It is possible to build
a frame around a mosaic you have already made, but again it helps to have a miter saw or a friend with one. This method is
recommended because you can drill through the frame to mount your mosaic into the studs of the wall.
Hardwood trims and moldings work very well for making a "picture frame" type of border on the surfaces of wooden coffee
tables. The molding can be attached with carpenter's glue. Tip: Stain a sample piece of the molding to make
sure that it can be stained close enough in color to the color of the coffee table.
We don't recommend plastic for backers. Even a sloppy half-hearted mosaic takes some work. Once you are done,
you will be glad you spent a little bit of time to find a backer that will last.
Glass tile can be difficult to cut in a predictable shape due to the scoring on the backsides of the tiles. That is why
you should cut the tiles upside down so that you can see how the embossed ridges might be affecting your cut. (Wear
safety glasses as always.)
Here's the more important information:
The pieces shouldn't be perfect squares or
triangle. The irregularity ensuresa grout gap even when the tiles are pressed close together. More importantly, non-uniform
squares will make the mosaic much more interesting visually than uniform squares. (Look at traditional mosaics if you doubt
this.) Perfect squares make a mosaic look like it was made from a kit. A little irregularity makes a mosaic look more like
hand-made art.
Tiles should never be "shaped" or custom cut. Instead, cut up about 4 or 5 tiles, and then select the
piece that is closest in shape to what you need. You will find that you work faster that way with much less stress.
To make a simple mosaic, you sketch an outline or "cartoon" on the surface. Then you lay tile on the drawing until
you are comfortable with the colors, the size of the tile, how it will look, etc. Then you start gluing the tiles on one by
one. The problem is that this takes forever and is tedious because your fingers become sticky with glue and you disturb
other tiles as you work.
The solution is simple: Lay the tile out without gluing them down. Keep going until the design is complete.
Then carefully press a piece of clear contact paper down on the tiles. (It might be useful to have an extra pair of
hands help you do this, and make sure you start in the middle and work outward to avoid wrinkles, which can be disastrous.)
Spend as much time as needed pressing the contact paper down, rubbing carefully to ensure that each tile is Then CAREFULLY
slide the mosaic onto a temporary board or table top just to store it for the time being. Now you can apply thinset
or adhesive to your surface and press the mosaic into the thinset or adhesive. After the cement is fully cured in 24
to 48 hours, you can peel off the contact paper and grout the mosaic.
An alternative method that may be easier for some people: You can lay clear contact paper upside down on your outline
and stick the tiles face-down onto the contact paper. Note that this requires that the tiles be attached to the paper
upside down. This means that you are creating your design in left-right reverse because the paper/tiles will be flipped
over when installed.
We have a page for finding and using Inexpensive Mosaic Patterns.
A simple procedure for transferring and enlarging mosaic patterns is explained on our page for Inexpensive Mosaic Patterns.
Legal Disclaimer and Copyright Information. No warranty is implied by these instructions. Use at your own risk. Please wear goggles when cutting mosaic materials
or mixing grout. Mosaic materials are often sharp. Keep out of reach of children. Do not overload patio
tables with mosaic materials so that the table becomes unstable (top heavy). You should also make sure that the table
frame can support the overall weight. Copyright 2003 J.E. Moorman. Please link to these instructions freely, but email
us if you would like to reproduce them for classes, etc. |
TOP OF PAGE
|
